Sunday, June 24, 2012

Jil's Back: Jil Sander Menswear Spring 13

A frequent point of discussion amongst my friends and I (most of us studied fashion design together) is what we could expect to see in the upcoming few seasons after all that designer upheaval of a few months ago - namely, Raf-to-Dior, Jil-back-to-Jil, Hedi-at-YSL (which is now Saint Laurent apparently) and Karl-must-be-messing-with-us-right.

Since I was, incidentally, not doing a thing lastnight except being listless and marginally jaded, I made a point of hovering around the computer to see Jil Sander's latest collection back at the reigns of her namesake house and then calling Jack afterwards to debrief (and discuss Ancient Aliens and the pyramids, of course). My first reaction was "nice, meh". Because it was nice, in that classically Jil, minimalistic way. I think the creamy beige looks that finished were my favorites - along with the navy double-breasted opening looks and a really nice khaki green and a yellow that appeared in some outerwear.

A decent chunk of the looks still felt very Raf - the strong blue coats and the cut of the shorts to be specific. However it's not surprising, and the gradual transition between the designers is more palatable than a dramatic clean slate would have been.

I wasn't a particular fan of most of the prints - the Mondrian-esque knitwear felt wrong, as did the prints on the tshirts. However I did love the polka dots and their lack of uniformity. Especially when layered print-on-print.

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