Here's some gratuitous Miu Miu for the end of your weekend. I can't believe today is both the last day of summer and the last day of holidays! Back to uni tomorrow, can't wait. Sorry blogging has been thin on the ground this weekend. I've been out of town at my sisters rowing regatta with no internet and a dead phone! So nice to unplug and relax in the sun. For everyone that's back at uni tomorrow (like me, and I can't wait to get started!) good luck for the semester!
Sorry for the minimal posting the past few days; work beckoned as did family commitments, not to mention our pre-uni meeting. Am feeling a tad overwhelmed already but can't wait till I go back. I also got to meet the lovely ladies behind Salasai (I'll post on this over the weekend hopefully). Right now though I've been soaking up the sun in Cambridge at the lake while my little sister rows her heart out and I remember the years that I did the same. Naturally I have dragged plenty of uni/blog work down to the motel (laptop, books, scanner, sketchbooks) so saturday night will be work-filled and free from the distractions of Auckland.
I wish I'd had more to post about London Fashion Week, but not as much caught my fancy as usual - a few usual favorites were disappointing, and although I love prints, all digital printing didn't really grab me to be honest. Did anyone else feel a little underwhelmed?
I'd expected to love Burberry as usual, and I did. An unexpected surprise however was the Aquascutum collection which I really adored. So so classic yet so fresh. Nearly every look featured long skirts, cut perfectly in blacks, navies and camels and paired with crisp white shirts and matching jackets. All the wool fabrics look so luxurious. It's funny how a simple, classic and mature collection like this is so refreshing. Not bells and whistles, no obnoxious trends just simple and well cut. What could be bland is instead seductive and chic. The perfect hybrid of traditional, masculine pieces and the long-skirt silhouette - both of which I've been really into lately. This collection is all about timelessness and looking like a woman. Clean and simple. Oh and just wondering, am I the only one that is absolutely OBSESSED with camel at the moment?
Burberry is always one of the collections I absolutely cannot wait for. Every season Bailey's collections get better and better, and after the killer menswear collection shown not long ago I was even more excited to see the Fall offering for the women. And it certainly did not disappoint. This season it was the jackets and the shoes that seduced me. Although I do wish we'd seen some of the perfect denim he did for the men for the women too.
Everyone's been doing shearling this season, but Christopher Bailey walked all over them and took it to another level - shearling on steroids, in the best possible way. It featured on parkas, coats and leather jackets, all utterly covetable and all evidence that the house of Burberry is leading the pack (again) in outerwear.
As well as luxuriously dramatic shearlings, The slick classic navy jackets stole my heart too - classic reefers and blazers in the nicest navy hue I've seen in a while. Simple and chic in monochrome looks.
The khaki green that made an appearance proved itself, yet again, to be a surprisingly appealing and wearable choice for outerwear and tailored pieces - more refreshing than classic blacks and navy's but still appropriately simple. I love the oversized a-line coat (look at the giant patch pocket! It would fit a novel, which of course is excellent) and the shrunken boy-suit on Freja. The aged-looking leather coat was also a pleasant surprise, that finish isn't as common as it should be, but that might be a good thing.
Luxurious sheepskin also appeared in some coats, and the brown fur chubby looks like a teddybears picnic (which is a good thing of course).
And don't even get me started on how perfect the boots were...
As per usual, the first viewing of a Christopher Kane collection leaves you thinking "What the fuck? This really shouldn't work. But I think I kindof of love it?". Style.com referred to it a "sick stomach lurch" and "vision changing nausea". Kane takes something bad taste and pushes it past good and into high fashion and almost into bad again. Cue head spinning. I had to look at the fall collection about four times before I could decide how I really felt - getting over the initial shock and surprise, then the lust starts.
For Fall he pair black leather with lace and parochial craftwork (embroidery, bejewelling etc) in a collection that in his own words was all "about a teenage delinquent" and like a love child of an irish dancer, teenage bride Priscilla Presley and church reliquaries. As you do. Well Kane did say his muse was a "good Catholic girl, you know!"
My favorite pieces featured sharp, prim little collars in either slick leather or beautiful embroidery. The perfect foil to all that black lace and those short hemline.
And the embroidery work really is so so charming and such a refreshing feature on all the black leather. Playful, youthful and adorably quaint.
You can always count on Pringle for some inspiring yet still classic knitwear. I think I have a think for cable-knit-on-steroids this year, as mentioned yesterday. Simple, wintery and shows off the construction much better than black. Textured winter white always seems so seasonal too. Oh and shearling has been EVERYWHERE this season (and shows no sign of abating - just wait until you see my mammoth, raving Burberry post. To sum it up, TO DIE FOR) and that jacket is one of the better ones I've seen yet, a little bit deconstructed and feral.
I'm also a bit obsessed with the boy-suit for women. Far from the womanly power-suits that often come to mind, instead its a slimmer, shrunken version of a man-style suit. Best in dowdy yet unexpected colours like the grey/khaki seen at Karen Walker or these cocoa or tan ones at Jaeger (love the contrast lapels). Oh and I have a soft spot for those suede paper-bag waist trousers. Although those preceding adjectives mean they probably would look appalling on anyone who's not 5"10 with a 23" waist. Damn.
Bonny And Clyde is a favorite iconic fashion film of mine, so I was very pleased to see this modern homage to it's greatness. Love the loose mannish trousers in particular. And I wish neck-scarves could look that cool in real life - rather than contrived and try-hard.
I love colour but it's rare that i seen it done right in an editorial setting - usually they are just too over the top and with too many primary colours, which I tend to find a bit garish. But this however is perfect. The weird-but-pretty hues are spot on, as is the print mix (both clashing and complementary), the shoes and that purple wall. Colour and print inspiration at its best. Do you mix prints? I love to but it is a bit of a challenge to get it just right but not too matchy. Having a general "wardrobe palette"tends to help, mine veers on the side of blues (denim and sky blue generally), cream, tan, grey and burgundy. What's yours?
Elle US March 2010 "Seeing is Believing" Egle Tvirbutaite by Max Farago
I just read Fashionista's piece on the Ten Things they can't live without from NYFW and immediately thought "what are mine??!". There are definitely reoccurring themes in my picks; preppy schoolgirls, classic pieces, simplicity and neutrals.
1. Richard Chai Love's sheer printed shirt. It looks like floral but its actually teeny paper cranes - how cool is that? It has the perfect amounts of delicacy and femininity for winter - perfect for contrasting with oversized knits and man-jackets.
2. This whole out fit from Reed Krakoff. While each piece is lustworthy, they way they work together - they simple layers, block colours, proportion and body-swamping is so fresh and so simple.
3. Those fleecy/fluffy giant-plaid shorts from 3.1 Phillip Lim. So cute and tactile with print thats bold yet would work with EVERYTHING in my wardrobe. And cosy looking to boot - and they'd work over tights.
4. A boy-suit from Karen Walker. Dowdy, functional colours, mismatched jacket and trousers - and with that grown-out-of look. Old-fashioned, un-pretty and awesome.
5. This whole look from Cynthia Steffe. Simple, comfortable and cute. Paying homage to the preppy/schoolgirl look without being contrived or literal. How simple would variations on this look be for uni this year?
6. DKNY oversized man-blazer in a delicious toffee-camel hue. Giant enough to wear a million jumpers and shirts underneath, yet short and swingy to show off hosiery covered legs.
7. Green on green at Rang & Bone. Such an underestimated colour so why not double it in one outfit? The cardigan and the jacket together are the perfect example of monochrome - differing fabrics, prints and ever so slightly in colour.
8. I'd be very happy with either (or both) of these pieces from Marc Jacobs. Frumpy length skirt in dowdy fabric? Yes pleased. Topped with a simple, a-line mannish coat? That too.
9. I tried to pick apart that look from Rachel Comey, but it's the beauty of the prints and colours together that really makes this shine. Although there's no black, it still evokes autumn and winter perfectly, infusing the typically harsh and sombre seasons with warmth and femininity.
10. I love the Olsens. I love the simple classics that The Row does so well. I love frumpy long skirts. Need I say more.
The second of my three Trend Reports on NYFW is now up onFront Row Diary - this one is on all the main themes, from Contemporary Minimalism to All-American Sportswear to Preppy Schoolgirls. What was your favorite trend at NYFW? And do you think we will see them in the other fashion capitals in the upcoming weeks?
I love the cable-knits-on-steroids at Julien Macdonald. Winter white and uber cosy - and just look at that detail and texture. I also secretly totally love that this collection was inspired by Jilly Cooper (the queen of the British bonk-buster fyi).
One of the most awesome things about that Fall 10 shows is that designers have grown bored with all the TIGHT!!BRIGHT!!SHORT!!SEXY!! and FUTURISTIC!!FIERCE!! trends that have been de rigueur for a few seasons and are finally producing garments that women can a-c-t-u-a-l-l-y wear in day to day life. Richard Nicoll was one of them. All the grown up women who left the show were reportedly elated - with one French retailer exclaiming"OK. Let's stop the blah-blah! Just give us something to wear! This looked effortless. Job done. Great." And she's right. I'd toss that icy-blue cashmere jumper over the check pants and walk straight out the door to uni. Maybe with the cream jacket if its really chilly. Perfect.
Topshop Unique took a walk on the wild side for Fall - with a collection inspired by camping, boy scouts and wild animals. And Topshop did good!! Shrunken boyscout uniform that is rather adorable, furry jackets (so cosy) and a line minis. I love the use of army green... And LOVE the furry mask/hats - courtesy of Topshop collaborator Emma Cook. Oh and those eybrows.. Can't help but like those. Wolfman-chic. Beastial beauties.
God these shots have been waiting to be posted since early last week. Sorry team, ten hours work each day this weekend means I was a bit wiped out. But here we are.
There has been keen anticipation from the legions of Alexa fans awaiting her collection for Madewell. It debuted in a presentation during NYFW and certainly didn't disappoint. Although it didn't reinvent the wheel (and was very vintagey), it was 100% Alexa and therefor very charming, quirky, British and endearingly frumpy (and very leggy). I like it - the collection is everything we could have asked for from this collaboration.
These are my four favorite looks - both in wearability and veering away from anything overtly hipster. That denim shirt cream skirt is my absolute favorite - so simple and clean (and so easy to DIY). Actually I think that's what's appealing about alot of the collection, it shouldn't be too hard to get this look even without access to Madewell. Love the socks and sandal-wedges (and clogs). I wear socks with nearly everything so this was a welcome feature (as was their ubiquitousness in general at so many shows of NYFW).
The dungaree dresses and rompers were cute (although not sure how flattering the later is on anything that isn't pin-thin Alexa). The dresses were a bit hit and miss, but the simple collared black one worked.
Oh and Miss Chung did clogs, of course. What did you all think of it? Is it wearable? Do you think she's making her look to accessible and imitable? Were you underwhelmed or do you want all of it?
Sources: Fashionista, Fashionologie, The Fashion Spot.
The rest of Miu Miu's Spring campaign shots have finally appeared. And I'm still in two minds about them. While I absolutely ADORE the collection (as youall know) and like the simplicity of these shots I just don't know if I'm a fan of both the model and the clothes. I get what they were going for, a kind of Twiggy-esque leggy waif look. But I find the limb exaggeration (whether by camera lens or photoshop) a little unsettling - as if models aren't long and leggy enough? And to be honest I find having womens clothes modeled by a reclining, spread-legged 15 year old somewhat disturbing. So I'm a bit torn; a collection I love, but a campaign that disturbs me a little bit. It's funny how as I get older I get more bothered by super-young, prepubescent models - but I suppose it makes sense. What do you all think of this campaign? Am I the only one being a bit overly-sensitive?
The Fall offering from 3.1 Phillip Lim showed clever, modern spins of contemporary classics like the duffle coat, shearling and the camel coat - which is shaping up to be one of the most ubiquitous pieces of the Fall collections from New York.
One of my favorite parts of the collection - and possibly the most fun - was the pieces that were made of a giant, fluffy plaid fabric in neutral hues of grey, black and tan. The shorts and trousers look ridiculously cosy, and would be a playful injection for winter, paired with simple neutral knitwear and shirts.
Camel and toffee tones were the backbone of many of the outerwear looks, adding warm colour to the mostly neutral hued collection. And I love how well they go with denim. Shearling also popped up (yet again) here - it was all over the NYFW runways like a cosy, welcome rash.
We've come to know and love Rodarte for their dark, gothic, horror-fairytale collections that have both a decaying fragility and a futuristic toughness. So it was a welcome surprise to see them move forward - for Fall of all seasons - to a light, feminine almost homespun place. Black did not feature once, instead it was replaced by the palest of ivories, washed out floral print and toasty coloured textures - with the odd pop of burgundy and violet. I adore this collection more than any of their others; it's referencing of the decaying, fragile innocence in stories like The Virgin Suicides and Picnic At Hanging Rock, the homespun craft elements like crocheted dresses, the appealingly tactile melange of fabrics, prints and textures. And those long white dresses! If this is a sign of things to come, as I hope it is, then we can hope see the Rodarte sisters exploring a lighter side of their work.
Here's a little editorial goodness before I hit the hay for the night, care of Vogue Nippon. Anna Selezneva is in deliciously white trash mode in some of Spring's funner pieces (namely beach-scape prints and The Flintstones of course) as she hits the highway gas-stations and motels in al the rusty glory.
Apologies for the lack of blogging today, was at work 8:30-6 AND last night too. And I have SO many half finished posts about NYFW for you all. In the meantime, hop on over to Front Row Diary and have a read of my first (of three) Trend Report on NYFW, this one is on the colours and pieces on common themes and key pieces will follow in the next few days. Have a read here. God and London Fashion Week is starting soon. And Uni next monday. And work every day. And I'm out of town next weekend. Waaah head will be spinning off into another solar system!!
Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Anyone else obscenely busy even though its "holidays"?
Krakoff is the designer who reinvigorated Coach, and for Fall he launched his signature line Reed Krakoff. The collection was in the vein of this contemporary minimalism we've seen for a few seasons and part of it echoed Pheobe Philo's collections for Celine. I loved these silhouettes - long, oversized and body swamping. Inky black suede skirts and pants fell to the floor, covered in chunky grey knits and caramel leather and shearling. Functional and simple and so appealingly cosy. It's a look we've seen on many an Olsen lately, and one I love to wear as the weather dips.
Proenza Schouler is without a doubt one of the shows it seems everyone has been waiting for, as season after season we get something new and exciting. I absolutely adored their preppy, sombre hued Pre-Fall collection so was understandably excited to see that their Fall collection was a development in the same vein - yet with a darker, punkier twist to it. Duffle coats, deconstructed fair isle knits and static-like patterned high waisted jeans were some of my favorite features. As were the button up shirts with the contrasting black top button that jumped out at you which featured in many looks.
The Proenza boys also did a twisted, darker take and baby doll dresses that was refreshingly un-saccharine. What were your favorite Proenza looks? And do you like the development from their Pre-Fall collection? Because I almost think I liked that a teeeny bit more (although I still love the Fall collection too, don't get me wrong).
I did love the beauty look - bare face with strong brows and a merlot stained lip - fresh and youthful yet with a dark edge.
And don't even get me started on the delightfully clunky shoes. They are like the ultimate footwear lovechild of Clogs, Orthopedic shoes and Brothel Creepers. Topped off with an eery heel.