PFW: Maison Martin Margiela Fall 12

A twinset at Margiela (of all places), in what looks like a bonded wool, was one of my favorite pieces in the fall collection. As is all the impeccably cut outerwear. And the necklines - from the exaggerated turtlenecks, to buttoned-to-the-top jackets and the openings that crept up the neck in a graceful arc on some of the tops. The skirts are also strong - with pleats and intriguing layers and thigh high slashes - and a good foil to the more clinical pieces.

PFW: Yohji Yamamoto Fall 12

I didn't particularly like all the jersey at Yohji Yamamoto - but I did love the spaghetti strap dresses, the gestures created by them models clutching their heavy textured knits, the makeup and the hair. Between Prada and Yohji, super-90s-straight hair with coloured highlights seems to be a thing now.

Dana Lee

I've been noticing New Yorker Dana Lee's name around - from Fantastic Man and Turned Out to Sherie's new blog. Not only are her lookbooks captivating and intriguing in their simplicity, beauty and realness - but her approach to her practice of menswear design is admirable. These aren't fashion, not with a capital f at least, but clothes. Garments you buy for their quality, practicality and timelessness. And that you keep forever. Instantly familiar like something rediscovered from your past. Menswear you steal from your significant other, or if like me and a lone wolf, purchase for yourself regardless.

FW09

FW11

SS10

SS10

FW09

PFW: Dries Van Noten Fall 12

And now for something non-NZFF related, finally - Paris Fashion Week has started. Dries Van Noten was the first of my favorite designers to show. The cut and tailoring of the garments is pure Dries and this seasons prints are a re-appropriated and combined from across Asia with Japanese, Chinese and Korean iconography all in a contemporary and arresting execution that is far from being to literal or costumey (as Asian inspired references can so often be when not handled well). The prints were apparently taken from the vast Victoria & Albert Museum archives. At their strongest, the vibrant, intriguing prints appeared on an exquisitely cute white suit and silk shirts and dresses. Asian motifs were also embroidered on immaculately tailored jackets as a more subtle, masculine interpretation. The high, turtleneck details in crisp cotton that appeared in the mens collection were here again - the cotton has a completely different effect than the more traditional knit used for these - and they worked so well with the popped collars of the outerwear and jackets. Also, fantastic footwear - resembling tortoiseshell.

Good Things from NZFF Day Five

Last night was probably the best of the whole week, with Zambesi, Jimmy D, Liam and Stolen Girlfriends Club.

Jimmy D

Cool things backstage at NZFF Day Five

Hanging out backstage is the best part of NZ Fashion Festival. The usual suspects were there, as well as Oliver and Felix this time. The MAC makeup was next level glitter and the hair was really great lastnight. Here's what I saw and what we did.

Dasha, always reading.

Gunita from Latvia and Kelvin from Russia, wearing Hailwood.

Jimmy D - great hair, great back view.

Good things from NZFF Day Four

I was supposed to blog this yesterday, but time got away with me. So here it is this morning! All the best runway looks from my favorite labels that showed on thursday night at NZ Fashion Festival. Nearly everything should be in stores by now, so it's there for the taking.

Lonely Hearts

Outfit Documentation: Friday 2nd May - The Weather Bomb Edition

Yesterday was all about the imminent weather bomb - civil defense warnings and everything. It's hard to dress for a combination of that and NZ Fashion Festival, so I went for a trousers-sweater-coat combo - that sensible decision will never fail you. I think I've worn yellow nearly every day this week. Apparently that's my thing now.

What I wore:

- Coat from my graduate collection.

- Mens jumper from Country Road.

- Humble Trousers .

- Converse - eight years old and counting.

- That same gold chain I always wear.

What I did:
- Spent the morning blogging and editing photos.
- Had a bagel at Dizengoff with Jack, Areez and the usual suspects.
- Had a coffee with my friend Tom and talked suits, life and taxes.
- Went down to Shed 10 for the last night of NZFF (more on that later).
- Then we went to Sal's for pizza. It was my first time - I've held out so long. It was good, very New York. I still prefer Il Buco in Ponsonby though.

Cool things backstage at NZFF Day Four

Seon was the best dressed model today. Calvin tee, her aunts old jeans, yellow converse and a tweed jacket. And the best part is she doesn't even need to try and she ends up dressed like this. That girl is a mega babe.

Docs x two. These patent white ones are fresh.

 All plaits, all the time.

Outfit Documentation: Thursday 1st May

What I wore:

-  Zambesi PVC pants.

- Play by Comme des Garcons tshirt from Fabric

- Denim jacket from Glassons.

- Converse high tops in navy.

- Deadly Ponies bag from Children Of Vision.

- Glassons beanie.

- MAC Violetta lipstick.

What I did:
- Admin and emails in the morning.
- Sewed some pants.
- Had sushi.
- Went down to Shed 10 for the fourth night of New Zealand Fashion Festival
- Hung around backstage with models and the bloggers union; coincidentally and hilariously all five of us wearing Converse and three of us wearing beanies.
- Watched the show, more on this shortly.
- We all went to Ken Yakitori for the second night in a row. No where else is open at 10:30pm. It was a great group decision. Spicy dumplings rule.

MFW: Prada Fall 12

Miuccia's digital princesses clad head-to-toe in magic eye prints and searing colours. The proportions of the sleeveless coats paired with long skirts and trousers is great. As is the slim, belted suits. And that hair.

Good Things from NZFF Day Three

So last night I found myself down at Shed 10 for NZ Fashion Festival. I wasn't able to make it the first two nights, but am there for the rest of the week. It was good to see such strong public interest and attendance - at both the show lastnight and the Viva Seminar. It was also good to hang out with Katherine, Lani, Maddy and Nikau - possibly our best group decision was going to Ken Yakitori after the show and inhaling everything on the menu. Fashion makes you hungry.

Ingrid Starnes

Definitely the standout at last nights show with her vibrant, feminine winter collection.

NZFF: Viva Interviews Karen Walker

Last night was the third night of the New Zealand Fashion Festival. I got down to Shed 10 just in time to catch the Viva Seminar - the highlight of which was Karen Walker being interviewed by fashion features editor Zoe Walker and beauty editor Janetta Mackay. They talked a lot about the latest Karen Walker show at New York Fashion Week, the ongoing collaboration with Beau Coops and the upcoming homeware line. The full interview is below.

LOVE "Nairobi" by Alice Hawkins

I'm not going to try and write about this stunning set of images by Alice Hawkins for Love magazine, between the setting, subjects and use of designer pieces it speaks for itself.

Details at Jil Sander Fall 12

Outfit Documentation: Sunday 26th February, guest starring Oliver Rose

The cocktail dress required at the opening party of the New Zealand Fashion Festival last night was naturally just an excuse to suit up and look like a pseudo power couple with my good friend, great plus one and photographer by trade Oliver Rose.

What I wore:

- Comme des Garcons jacket from Wunderkammer

- Vintage camisole

- Silk Humble Trousers

- Topshop heels

- Karen Walker sunglasses

Oliver is wearing a suit by Crane Brothers.

What we did:
- Had great apple mojitos in jars at Tyler Street Garage
- Went to the NZ Fashion Festival opening part at Shed 10
- Went to see the amazing Andrea Balency play at Golden Dawn. She's wonderful, and we got to see her play twice this weekend.

MFW: Raf Simons' last collection for Jil Sander, Fall 12

Simons' final collection for Jil Sander explored the concept of the home and a day in the life of a relationship - capturing hope, comfort and vulnerability, as well as darkness and potential chaos. All of which evoked nostalgia for a decades past and a different kind of daily routine. The bulk of the collection was executed in a pale, romantic palette that echoed the glass-enclosed wildflowers of the set and was complemented by the jarringly beautiful gesture of the models holding their coats closed. These referenced the intimacy of the home environment - a vulnerability that was enforced further by the delicate palette, figure conscious silhouettes and nod to sleepwear. The last few looks of the show sat more alongside the dark, precise menswear collection that showed recently. 

The collection in itself is so moving in it's beauty and nostalgia - made even more so by the news a few days ago that this would be Raf Simons last collection for Jil Sander, with Sander herself returning to the house. Simons is, in my opinion, the best of our generation - what he has achieved at Jil Sander in the past seven years has been groundbreaking and a blessing to see. Hopefully the rumors of his new job at Dior are true, otherwise I pray he starts doing womenswear for his namesake label, it would be a tragedy otherwise.